Greg Collier, Charlotte’s James Beard Award finalist chef, has taken over as executive chef at Fine & Fettle since October, transforming the hotel lobby spot into a showcase for his Southern cuisine. Despite recent closures of his previous ventures amid economic pressures and staff shortages, the dining room sat nearly empty on a recent Friday night. This oversight misses Collier’s return to form, backed by the stability of a hotel partnership.
Navigating Restaurant Closures and New Stability
Fine & Fettle occupied an unremarkable perch in the Canopy by Hilton Charlotte SouthPark lobby before Collier arrived, delivering competent but forgettable fare. His track record includes Leah & Louise, a Camp North End favorite that shuttered in 2024 due to economic headwinds, with relocation plans still unrealized. Then came 3rd & Fernwood’s closure in Midtown from financial strains and staffing issues, underscoring broader challenges in the independent restaurant world.
Collier sought a hotel alliance for its organizational backbone. “I’ve been wanting to get into a hotel partnership for a while,” he explained. “I really wanted to get to a place where I had financial and organizational support and could just focus on great food, service and drinks.” This setup frees him to mentor kitchen talent and source from local suppliers like Freshlist, while handling banquets offsets the lobby’s drawbacks.
Signature Dishes Signal a Southern Revival
Collier’s previews on Instagram since late November herald a back-to-basics Southern menu. The grilled cauliflower echoes the addictive cabbage from Leah & Louise: topped with everything-bagel-style seasoning and coffee molasses, it balances sweetness, crunch, tang, and depth. Hoppin’ John justifies its $35 price through slow-cooked field peas, red rice, and oxtail, crowned with pickled okra for bright contrast.
Even breakfast stands out amid typical hotel brevity. Mushroom toast delivers intense umami, while the buttermilk biscuit arrives light, sliced, and toasted. These plates reaffirm Collier’s skill in elevating humble ingredients, a hallmark that earned his James Beard nod.
Beyond Openings and Closings
A restaurant’s true measure lies in the chef’s creations between milestones. Collier emphasizes talent development and farm partnerships over mere survival. In Charlotte’s discerning food scene, Fine & Fettle now demands attention, proving hotel venues can nurture serious culinary ambition despite first impressions.
