James Beard Award finalist Greg Collier has taken over as executive chef at Fine & Fettle, transforming the Canopy by Hilton Charlotte SouthPark lobby restaurant since October. His arrival follows closures of his previous ventures amid economic pressures and staff shortages, yet his new menu delivers the inventive Southern cooking that built his reputation. On a recent Friday night, the dining room sat empty save for takeout orders, underscoring persistent challenges even as the food excels.
Navigating Closures and Seeking Stability
Collier's path to Fine & Fettle reflects broader strains on independent restaurants. His Camp North End spot Leah & Louise, co-owned with wife Subrina, shuttered in 2024 with plans for relocation that remain unrealized. Similarly, 3rd & Fernwood in Midtown closed due to financial troubles and staffing issues, which Collier described to CharlotteFive as an "‘everyone’ restaurant that just didn’t work out great."
"Subrina and I saw the writing on the wall with the economy when we closed Leah & Louise," he explained. The hotel partnership offers what independents often lack: financial and organizational backing. "I’ve been wanting to get into a hotel partnership for a while," Collier said, allowing focus on food, service, and drinks without ownership burdens.
Signature Dishes Recall Past Triumphs
Collier's previews since late November signal a return to Southern roots. The grilled cauliflower echoes the famed cabbage from Leah & Louise: topped with everything-bagel-like seasoning and coffee molasses, it balances sweet crunch, tang, and depth. This vegetable starter stands as a menu anchor, proving produce can command attention.
Hoppin’ John reimagines the classic at $35 through extended cooking of field peas, red rice, and oxtail into unctuous richness, brightened by pickled okra. Breakfast avoids hotel clichés with umami-packed mushroom toast and light, toasted buttermilk biscuits. These plates affirm Collier's skill remains sharp.
Talent Development and Local Ties Sustain the Vision
The real measure of a restaurant lies in the stories between openings and closings. Collier emphasized kitchen talent growth and partnerships with local farms like Freshlist. Hotel banquets offset the lobby location's drawbacks, fostering steady operations.
Fine & Fettle now exceeds its name, drawing diners through quality amid Charlotte's volatile scene. Collier's focus promises enduring appeal, where economic headwinds yield to disciplined creativity.
